Danielle Vermeer
@DLVermeer
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the future of fashion is circular // building @teleport__app tiktok for thrifting // 12+ years of no new clothes
DC/LA/CHI ✈️ download app ⤵️
Joined June 2012
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Pinned Tweet
Etsy isn’t Etsy-ing anymore because of the “junkification” effect
Here’s what happened…
etsy is not etsy-ing anymore this is sick why it feel like i’m shopping on shein ?!?!
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Hot take: most Gen Z consumers don't even know what quality fashion looks & feels like
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The cheaper the brand, the more polyester they use
“Sheinification” refers to the enshittification of clothing quality, driven by fast fashion
Here's WTF is happening in the fashion industry & why the quality of clothes has 📉...
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“Junkification” is when platforms get flooded with low-quality, cheaply made products
The shift often occurs when under pressure to scale & be profitable
• Etsy: handmade → manufactured
• Poshmark: secondhand → dropshipping “boutiques”
• Amazon: 1P → random 3P sellers
has anybody written a piece about how Etsy is no longer really about selling handmade crafts and has instead become a mere middleman for AliExpress?
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The average SHEIN shopper isn’t a broke teen girl
It’s a 35-year-old woman who “cares about sustainability” & spends $1200 per year on clothes
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This video went semi-viral (230K) and asked handmade / vintage sellers where they went after Etsy:
• flea markets
• local stores / boutiques
• Instagram / Shopify stores
• shut down their small biz
• new platforms (
@teleport__app
, Michael’s new marketplace)
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I don't know who needs to hear this but “vegan leather” is just plastic.
preview drop 001 of Khy now on and join the waitlist to be the first to shop my limited edition first drop
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thinking about that time someone on poshmark called this Emilio Pucci set an “Italian clown costume” and sold it for $11
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In last 10+ years, the quality of fashion has degraded, accelerated by rise of fast fashion
When clothes aren't built to last & your closet is full of cheap polyester items you've worn once...
then of course fashion is considered a disposable good
Let's unpack the issues...
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what I think happened in the Shein / Jaded London debacle:
1. Manufacturer error
Shein has a network of manufacturers that could overlap with Jaded London (also fast fashion btw) & the factory accidentally sewed in both tags
or…
im laughing so hard because a girl on tiktok bought an $180 set from jaded ldn and it came with a shein tag and now jaded ldn is in the replies fighting for their lives against teenagers
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“Sheinification” refers to the enshittification of clothing quality, driven by fast fashion
Here's WTF is happening in the fashion industry & why the quality of clothes has 📉...
On Shein:
- Their clothes are 65% polyester (double Zara & H&M!) - - Laundering polyester is responsible for ~35% of the microplastics in the ocean
- They ship between 2-3 billion items a year
- Their emission grew by 52% last year
- They've 10x'ed their lobbying spend in…
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@MylesTW
Yes, mushroom or pineapple or whatever leather exists, but the vast majority of faux leather is plastic.
Polyurethane, to be exact.
I don't know who needs to hear this but "vegan leather" is just plastic.
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The Summer I Turned Pretty proves you can be a teenager in your 20s & 30s because this was all of us in the latest episode
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Resale is not the solution to overproduction in the fashion industry.
Case in point: ZARA donating a season’s worth of clothes to the thrift store.
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@TurnerNovak
His bio is a “professional Google Maps player.”
Dude made Jeopardy out of Maps 🤯
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Summary:
Gen Z doesn't understand quality in fashion due to:
- Accessibility
- Manufacturing
- Haul & dupe culture
Hypothesis:
Gen Z will value quality when they experience it first-hand—likely through affordable, secondhand fashion that was made to last
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Issue
#1
: Accessibility
I've read 1000s of comments on Twitter, TikTok & IG from fast fashion shoppers
Shein shoppers are THE most defensive & justify buying lower-quality fashion due to:
• affordability
• size inclusivity
• trends
• convenience
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Issue
#2
: Textile Manufacturing
Gen Z closets are full of polyester clothes because the man-made material now accounts for 60% of new textile production
Why? It's cheaper than natural fibers
FYI—acrylic, polyamide, polyester, nylon, spandex, polypropylene are all made from oil
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Curation is the future of (re)commerce
A small thrift store in Charlotte, NC hosted a Taylor Swift Eras Tour themed thrift pop-up
The store owners sorted 3000 units of secondhand clothes & accessories to curate 1 rack per album
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“The Birth of Shein”
Photographer Samuel Greenhill staged this photo in protest of the fast fashion brand launching a pop-up in Ohio
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The
@sylvaniandrama
TikTok account is unhinged Gen Z perfection.
“We only wear sustainable vintage.”
“How do you afford that?”
“My Dad owns Shein.”
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A few updates since this blew up:
1. many Millennials haven’t experienced quality fashion too
2. quality is a systemic issue in the global fashion industry—it’s not just a consumer issue
3. my POV: folks will do better when they know better & have easy, affordable alternatives
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Issue
#3
: Haul culture
2 in 5 Gen Z-ers purchased a product after seeing it in a "haul" video (
@MorningConsult
)
Why pay $40 for a 100% cotton shirt when you can buy 10 shirts for $4/ea?
After all, for 1 in 7 items you'll only wear it once (
@CBinsights
)
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@VictoriaFutures
so true—there are still gems to be found but it takes a ton of searching/sorting/filtering/researching
and most shoppers don’t have the patience, skill, or time to do that 😕
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@MylesTW
a high-quality leather jacket will last generations
you can find 100s of vintage leather jackets for <$50 on resale sites
try
@the_gem_app
to search Poshmark, The RealReal, Ebay, etc. all in one place
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The quality of fashion has declined significantly over last 10-20 years
Even fast fashion from 15 years ago was higher quality vs. current fast fashion—Forever 21 had 100% silk, cotton, etc clothes!
Millennials may have “vintage Forever21” but Gen Z won’t have “vintage Shein”
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Issue
#4
: Dupe culture
TikTok, Shein, and faster trend cycles are driving demand for dupes
Half of Gen Z has purchased fake products or dupes
• 2022: 52% intentionally purchased fake item online within last year
�� 2019: 14% intentionally purchased
TikTok hashtags related to dupes have hundreds of millions of views
But some creators caution:
“Our urge to find a dupe for everything has us in an f-ing chokehold. My fashion sisters in Christ, everything is not meant for everybody.”
Plus, fakes are illegal 🙃
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@dieworkwear
it is truly unhinged Gen Z perfection
The
@sylvaniandrama
TikTok account is unhinged Gen Z perfection.
“We only wear sustainable vintage.”
“How do you afford that?”
“My Dad owns Shein.”
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2. Switcheroo
Shein manufactures dupe of Jaded London set
Then buyer purchases REAL & DUPE sets, but sews in the Jaded London tag when returning the dupe to get a refund for the price of the real set
This happens with luxury bags 😅
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@lvamsgatthebeep
People are pissed that someone on TikTok reworked a vintage dress
But they’re not pissed that we dump 15 million tons of clothing waste in Ghana *each week*
Or that Goodwill gets so many wedding dresses that they resell them in basically a dumpster for $14 each
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Reminder: Resale is not the solution to overproduction in the fashion industry.
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gen z vs. millennials on resale sites:
millennials:
this is a zebra print dress I wore to homecoming in 2003 = $10
gen z:
vintage y2k goth bimbo zebra print dress with hot pink accents = $40
the dress:
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@teleport__app
Want to learn more about fashion, tech, & resale?
Follow these experts:
•
@AjaSaysHello
•
@OgLakyn
•
@lingerie_addict
•
@rianphin
•
@justsarahdavis
•
@DLVermeer
Get
@teleport__app
:
shop vintage, handmade, & upcycled fashion from outfit videos
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Shein defenders and Depop reseller haters are two sides of the same coin.
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According to the UBS Securities report, avg SHEIN shopper:
• 34.7 years old
• spends 60% more on clothes vs. avg U.S. shopper
• 30% say fashion is less important than value & comfort
• shops at Amazon, Walmart, Target, TJMaxx
TL;DR—
they can afford to *not* shop at SHEIN
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I don't know who needs to hear this but "vegan leather" is just plastic.
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fast fashion brands:
sustainability! conscious collections! takeback programs!
also fast fashion brands:
we pump out 10,000 new styles per day & 80% of all clothes end up in landfill
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Reminder: what people say ≠ what they actually do
Gen Z & Millennials SAY they’d pay more for sustainable items
But they’re also more likely to shop Shein, Temu, etc.
In fact, Shein shoppers even make MORE sustainability claims vs. the avg consumer 🤯
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biannual reminder that “vegan leather” is just plastic
and plastic is made from petroleum
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@mattxiv
I think about this video almost weekly
The
@sylvaniandrama
TikTok account is unhinged Gen Z perfection.
“We only wear sustainable vintage.”
“How do you afford that?”
“My Dad owns Shein.”
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@lingerie_addict
Related:
- Some Depop resellers cut out the tags on Shein clothes and label as “vintage” or “no brand”
- Equating access to cute clothes with fundamental human rights
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I've read 1000s of comments on Twitter, TikTok & IG from fast fashion shoppers
Shein shoppers are THE most defensive & justify buying lower-quality fashion due to:
• affordability
• size inclusivity
• trends
• convenience
• nihilism (yes, really)
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Brands like ZARA are using thrift and secondhand channels to get rid of overstock or unsold inventory.
It’s of course better than sending to landfill, but doesn’t address the root cause…
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Marketplace is the only reason I still have Facebook because where else can you find a vintage vanity like this for $60??
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⚠️ Buyer Beware
some boutiques & depop resellers buy Shein in bulk and resell for $$$
see below for another viral video (2.9M+ 🚀) outing a boutique reselling Shein bathing suits for $40
TIP: use Google reverse image search before buying to avoid overpaying
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@teleport__app
@AjaSaysHello
@OgLakyn
@lingerie_addict
@rianphin
@justsarahdavis
Wow this thread resonated! 3.1M views in 12 hours 🚀
Here are 5 *actual* handmade & upcycled sellers to support this holiday season
$5-100 on Teleport:
1. VAED Slow Fashion Studio 🪡
Veronica is a Florida-based upcycled fashion designer
I’m obsessed with this thrifted button down she upcycled into a Vivienne Westwood-inspired top
Prices: $5-75
Shop here:
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Donation is not the solution for overproduction in the fashion industry.
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Hot take: Gen Z has a paradoxical relationship with fashion because many expect Shein prices for curated vintage items
For the past few months, my TikTok has been full of "what she wanted vs. what she got" videos advertising thrifted style bundles, which promise the excitement of a clothing haul without the fast-fashion guilt. I talked to the people selling & buying them:
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@brendahashtag
tired: commenting “where’d you get that?” on tiktok outfit videos
wired: easily finding tagged items in
@teleport__app
outfit videos
(Teleport is like TikTok meets Depop)
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Jaded London loses trust with customers with every non-transparent tiktok comment
📈1.3M views on viral video
❤️203K likes
🏷️6.6K bookmarks
btw FashionNova sells the dupe Jaded London set for $35
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Brands use polyester for a range of functional & aesthetic reasons (e.g., moisture wicking, pleating)
But based on the above chart, the primary reason is because polyester is cheap
Ex: 80%+ of SHEIN clothes contain new polyester, according to
@business
report
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TIL that Coachtopia isn’t made of real leather despite being called “Coachtopia leather”
This Ergo Bag is polyurethane (plastic) on the exterior & basically bonded with leather dust glued on the interior
Price: $250
I don't know who needs to hear this but “vegan leather” is just plastic.
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@AlciaMode
This is why my hypothesis is that younger consumers will learn about quality fashion through secondhand & vintage
Since most new clothes (including designer!) aren’t well made anymore
I’m convinced that Gen Z will have an “a ha” moment when they touch & feel quality fashion
Most new clothes aren’t well-made, so this moment will likely be from secondhand & vintage clothes
It’ll be a magical moment! 🪄
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@OgLakyn
Cannot believe that Elsa Schiaparelli wrote this in 1936:
“If you own a fairly large variety of cheap clothes…you will never appear chic; cheapness is always apparent.”
Timeless style advice!
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The rebranding of “vegan leather” is one of the greatest marketing hacks of the last decade
The vast majority of faux leather (fka “pleather”) is just plastic—
polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride, to be exact
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The root cause of excess inventory is overproduction relative to consumer demand
Brands are making too much stuff that consumers don’t want—leading to too much stuff overall
This is why fast fashion brand SHEIN’s “on-demand” model is interesting (in theory of course)
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TIL some depop sellers are cutting off tags from $10 Shein items & reselling as "vintage inspired" for $30+
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So what should you do if you want to shop fashion more sustainably?
• buy less
• buy better
• keep longer
• buy secondhand
What should fashion brands do to minimize overproduction?
• improve forecasting
• manufacture small batches
• invite consumers to co-create
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Vintage is always secondhand, but secondhand isn’t always vintage.
By definition:
• Vintage: 20+ years old
• Antique: 100+ years old
• Secondhand: aka pre-owned, pre-loved, used, thrift, resale
But if Y2K fashion is now technically “vintage”, has it lost all its meaning?
Rebranding "second-hand goods" to "vintage" is one of the greatest marketing hacks of our generation
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Hot take: if you’re too embarrassed to say it’s SHEIN, then you shouldn’t have bought it in the first place.
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Lululemon “We Made Too Much” sale
@lululemon
is discounting 1000s of extra activewear & athleisure items because they “made too much”
Is this just a cutesy name for end-of-season markdowns? Or a hint of deeper issues? 🤔
(channeling Charles Gross):
Let’s talk about it…
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@PhilWalkable
agreed! polyester doesn’t always mean poor quality (ex: Issey Miyake’s pleats)
but most clothes manufactured now are lower quality & higher volume than brands used to do
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Gen Z & younger consumers have grown up with fast fashion—cheap, disposable clothes that are mostly polyester
BTW Shein is 95% polyester (aka plastic), based on
@business
study
So how *could* they even know what quality clothes look & feel like?
Here’s my hypothesis…
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Brands are charging more for less quality due to:
📈 labor & material costs
🏃🏻♀️faster trend cycles
📉 consumer expectations of cheap clothes ($40 for 1 t-shirt seems outrageous when you can get 10 for $40 on Shein)
Result: brands cut corners w/ material & construction quality
@couturecrema
House of CB is also selling 97% polyester corset dresses for $200
you can also find it for ~$100 on resale sites
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millennials are still on facebook for only 3 reasons:
1. marketplace
2. buy nothing groups
3. neighborhood gossip
(👀 the tea below)
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@business
My hypothesis is that Gen Z will learn about & value quality when they experience it first-hand
The “a ha” moment will be when they can touch, feel, and try on quality clothes—
likely vintage from thrift stores & secondhand apps like
@teleport__app
a lot of shein defenders say "the quality isn't that bad!!" to which i say: you just dont know what high quality clothing looks/feels like
fast fashion (at every price point) is cutting so many corners that the average person can't see what makes a garment "well-made" anymore
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Secondhand & sustainable fashion will become consumers’ first choice when it’s a 10x better experience
To shift consumers from SHEIN to secondhand, the online thrifting experience needs to be:
• 10x easier
• 10x more fun
• 10x more accessible
Good news…
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@whoreby_parker
idk because this 94-year-old has had a Diet Coke every morning for breakfast since 1982
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charm necklaces are just the gen z equivalent of millennial statement necklaces
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@redemptionarcs
Great goal! I’m on year 11 of buying nothing new—only secondhand, thrifted, swapped, vintage, self-sewn, or ethically made
What are your favorite places to find quality garments?
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Hi new followers! 👋
Follow 👉
@DLVermeer
Subscribe 👉
Goodwill Hunting for best finds, insights & jobs in resale fashion
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Mushroom & plant-based “leathers” are promising alternatives, but they're $$ & not widely available yet
Most “vegan leather” is just plastic—derived from petroleum (oil)
Despite the greenwashing, it’s not more environmental friendly than buying a vintage leather jacket
fashion brands don’t make stuff like they used to
jacket with faux leather sleeves is peeling after <2 years vs. real leather jacket has lasted 40+ years
btw, both were thrifted & around the same price
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@mananh29
would be interesting to deep dive into the SKUs sampled & compare more apples to apples across brands
ex: basic white t-shirt across all of these brands
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More brands will start charging for returns if customers keep ordering like this
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PSA: Resale is not the solution for overproduction in the fashion industry
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If someone is vegan or has other ethical concerns with animal leather, that’s fine!
But let’s not pretend that petroleum-based “vegan leather” is better for the environment
We should all be trying to:
• buy less
• buy better
• wear & repair
• buy secondhand
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@zajanatural
That’s so disheartening! Are you still on Etsy?
If not, where did you go for your original soaps (sound amazing btw!) ?
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finally found a tiktok creator who talks about the intersection of:
• gen z
• identity formation (or lack thereof)
• microtrends & overconsumption
<50k followers but routinely gets 200k+ views 👀
Who is an expert on fashion trends, identity formation, & personal style?
I'm interested in learning more about how the rise of microtrends is impacting Gen Z & younger consumers' identity development & sense of belonging.
cc:
@OgLakyn
,
@rianphin
,
@AjaSaysHello
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WTF is Temu?
Millions in the U.S. just watched a Super Bowl commercial for Temu and are wondering what “Shop like a billionaire” means 🤔
Here’s what Temu is & how it works…
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Them: how long have you been interested in fashion & tech?
Me: since this Barbie Fashion Designer game from 1996
(btw is that baby Mila Kunis??)
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Most Gen Z consumers don’t even know what quality fashion looks and feels like.
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fast fashion brands on Earth Day:
sustainability! conscious collections! takeback programs! ♻️
also fast fashion brands:
we pump out 10,000 new polyester (aka plastic) styles per day & 80% of all clothes end up in landfill 🗑️
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Vestiaire Collective banned 30 more fast fashion brands from its resale platform
The campaign with generative AI clothes falling from the sky had very different reactions on TikTok (L) vs. Instagram (R)
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Wow! This thread on Etsy not Etsy-ing resonated! 📈
Here are 5 *actual* handmade & upcycled sellers to shop this holiday season
All $5-$100 on Teleport:
Etsy isn’t Etsy-ing anymore because of the “junkification” effect
Here’s what happened…
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@rianphin
See also:
• TikTok is building a secondhand fashion team
• Gen Z buys first luxury item 3-5 years earlier than Millennials did
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Is social media fueling Gen Z shopping addictions?
“pov: the 10 min Shein high is over”
“then only end up wearing 3 things”
“then life is boring again”
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Mandy Lee (aka oldloserinbrooklyn) announced the 75 Hard Style Challenge
1 day in:
• 275k views for
#75HardStyleChallenge
• 1000s of people participating
here’s how the challenge works…
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SHEIN manufactures in small batches, tests consumer response, then scales up/down
Traditional fashion brands…don’t
They forecast months in advance & buy into huge quantities (MOQs) to get lower per-unit cost
Result:
• 25-40% avg industry overstock
• <1% claimed by SHEIN
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Wow! This thread resonated! 📈
I want to learn more about how Gen Z & younger consumers shop for fashion.
Can you take this ~5 min survey? Thank you!
👇
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Two stats from
@annehelen
blew my mind 🤯
1. Avg. US adult lives only 18 miles from their mother
2. 80% of US adults live less than <2 hours away from their mother
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Consumers are confused & frustrated by rampant greenwashing in the fashion industry
They’re getting duped into paying hundreds of dollars for essentially plastic
For the same $250, you can get a vintage Coach bag that’s 100% real, high-quality leather
Learn more ⤵️
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when your Boomer Dad who loves Costco wears the Christmas present you got him…
to go to Costco
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