Gulraiz
@gulraizkhan
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Design practitioner 🤹🏻♂️. Urban enthusiast 🏙. Seasonal educator 👨🏻🏫. Parks ⛲️ & Transit 🚇 Lover. Twitter is entirely personal.
Karachi, Pakistan
Joined January 2010
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I was looking for my old articles and threads for a piece, and realised I've been writing about transit 🚇🚍🚊 (and parks ⛲️🌳🎠) for roughly a decade now. Putting them here in two sub-threads 🧶 to pin up as my Twitter Bibliography 📚:
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At the
#FIFAWorldCup2022
, the real winner is Doha.
I was expecting a flashy city (which there is) but not the investments in art, architecture, culture, education & public transport that I experienced. Here’s a few things you should see if you visit 🧶:
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Good thing Isloo is a small city so they can all get to their offices and go back and forth from Bani Gala to Parliament to SC to IHC etc. Karachi capital hota toh sab Shahrah-e-Faisal pay hi phansay rehtay.
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Two years ago, I made fictitious transit maps. Today, I’m happy to share with fellow
#Karachi
residents a real map of all functioning bus lines, featuring parks, hospitals & shopping & dining destination along these lines. High-res version at
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Bomb blasts. Rupee in freefall. Forex reserves dwindling. Skyrocketing inflation. Record heat waves. Melting glaciers. Water shortage downstream. Cholera. Weak, incapacitated coalition govt. Political circus every weekend. Is this the great unraveling? Ghabrahat ho rahee hay 😰
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Here is evidence that no amount of literacy, income level, technological expertise, historical experience, religion, defence expenditure, diaspora connections etc can make you a decent human that doesn’t want to kill other humans.
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#Karachi
has a glorious bus-based mass transit line, 23 years after the Karachi Circular Railway shut down, and I couldn’t be happier. This is the Board Office station. A bunch of city enthusiasts went up & down the entire line to celebrate!
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Now try again with a bus that can take you from Clifton to the beach in 25 mins. THAT would be a real win,
@murtazawahab1
. Easy to do with a siren-blaring Vigo ahead of you 😏
Went to hawksbay last night with old friends who were visiting
#Karachi
for Eid. It took us 25 minutes to reach Machli Chowk from Teen Talwaar thanks to the new infrastructure built
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14 MNAs, 25 MPAs plus a President, and not a single project in the city to talk about. No governance. Just Vawda and vibes 🥰
For a man who has 14 MNAs and many MPAs from this city but virtually zero to show for it, not surprised that Karachi’s issues were barely mentioned in IK’s speech tonight
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How good is the Islamabad MetroBus to go to the airport? I took a trip to find out: from Secretariat to Airport, a 39km ride.
@googlemaps
said 43 mins by car.
@CareemPAK
gave a fare range of Rs940 - Rs1,977. How’d the bus fare in time & exp, since fare isn’t fully charged? 🚍🕵🏻♂️
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Went on the Orange Line Metro, Pakistan’s first rail-based mass transit system, accompanied by
@theLahorewala
. What a beautiful piece of public infrastructure! Don’t want to dismiss the displacement it caused, but here’s some of the highlights:
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Golden hour on Orange Line. Men, and a lot more women than you see in general. Mask compliant. Quiet. Taking refuge from the sweltering July sun. 🧡
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Karachi rolled out its first set of electric buses last week, by
@pbsbrtsindh
, and I jumped on one (two, actually) today to try them out.
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1) Museum of Islamic Art. The I. M. Pei-designed building itself is an icon, with its high vaulted atrium and stunning views of Doha from its courtyard. The surrounding park is sprinkled with public art & pavilions with more exhibits.
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Two of my (beloved) team members are leaving. We decided to be honest at their farewell. These are their cakes. 👋🏽
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Yes, mangoes are the best, but look at this gorgeous ensemble of Karachi’s Summer Repertoire 😍Makes the heat & the load shedding (almost!) bearable.
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Cancel their British Passports and pack them to Pindi via PIA. Swap them with people who want to live in a liberal society. Will make life easier for everyone.
The Tehreek-I-Labbaik Pakistan (TLP) staged a demonstration outside the Pakistan High Commission in London today. The party, which was banned by the Pakistan govt this week, protested the deaths of its workers in clashes with police.
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Dad briefly worked in Doha in 1988, & I had some hazy memories of his photos from there. Last week when I was in Doha for the first time, I went tracing in his footsteps. Today, back home, I dug out his photos. Turns out, I did trace his footsteps to the exact place.
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🧎🏻♂️Ay Allah, hum sab ko Overseas Pakistani bannay ki toufiq ataa farma! Mulk say hamain mohabbat bhi hojayegi, Wazeer-e-Azam ka pyar bhi mil jayega, roz roz ki zalaalat say bhi jaan chootay gi, aur west ki azaadi ki thandi chaon bhi. Ameen. 🤲🏼📿
I have always believed Overseas Pakistanis to be our greatest asset. In April, your remittances rose to an all-time high of $2.8bn. Remitting $24.2bn in first 10 mths of FY21, you have broken the record level achieved in entire FY20. Thank you for your faith in Naya Pakistan.
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Opinions on pedestrian infrastructure from inside a tinted air conditioned car must be penalized.
These senseless projects must be penalized. No one uses this. Why was this built all over Lahore? Who made money?
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The collection includes rare religious & secular manuscripts and material objects from Muslim cultures across the world. Look at the blue & pink Quran folios, an Abbasid map of the world where East is North, & a talismanic shirt (with the entire Quran) from Delhi Sultanate!
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These high fuel prices should make public transport even more viable, financially and politically. We are an imported fuel dependent nation, and the sooner we move away from private vehicle dependency for everyday mobility, the better for all of us. Let’s not waste this moment.
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Was cycling on Tipu Sultan, all set for fasting tomorrow, when a black Vigo slowed down next to me, windows roll down, and a couple of voices go: Eid Mubarak!
That’s how I found out at ~11:30pm that it’s eid tomorrow. 🥂
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You took your whole cabinet to London for a meeting that could’ve happened on Zoom,
@CMShehbaz
. Should’ve led by example my man.
My decision to ban import of luxury items will save the country precious foreign exchange. We will practice austerity & financially stronger people must lead in this effort so that the less privileged among us do not have to bear this burden inflicted on them by the PTI govt.
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I’ve given up. For a project that they want to claim as theirs,
@PTIofficial
can’t even be bothered to hire their own photographers to board these buses and get their own photos. Gonna chalk this down to my quota of social responsibility.
Alhamdolilah Greenline is a delivering what was promised
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How are you a journalist and not know that you need to give credit for using other people’s photos?
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Taking the
#PeoplesBusService
up and down Route 1. The bus is stopping for every passenger along Chundrigar Road, to get on or off. Ten minutes later, we’ve only crossed HBL Plaza. This way, you will never be able to provide predictable service
@SMTA_GoS
@AltafSario
🚩🚩🚩
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Firdous Market underpass on Friday evening. Orange Line on Sunday morning. Tell me more about how one of these is a white elephant and a waste of taxpayer money. 😏
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Imagine going from Karachi to Islamabad, and back to Karachi, in 7.5 hours! 😱
Travel time for the 2,300 km Beijing-Guangzhou 🇨🇳 train journey will be reduced to 7.5 hours from today. The speed is increased to 350 km ph.
With same speed in Europe we could start from Oslo in morning and have a late lunch in Barcelona……
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YOU are govt. Health is provincial. provinces are free to import their own vaccines. Provinces can remove age restrictions. Provinces can take stricter measures. You are the provincial government!! Step up! How are you passing this buck to anyone else?
2) In order to stop the surge of
#Covid19
cases, Govt needs to ensure adequate supply of vaccines, remove age restrictions especially for people with health conditions & encourage pvt sector. We all need to clear myths about vaccine & convince people that it is for our own good
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I’ve been unsuccessfully chasing Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Rooms across NY, London & European cities for years. They’re booked months in advance. In Doha, her work is sprinkled all over MIA garden & the Infinity Room is open for experience!
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I admire
@MiftahIsmail
for putting his political future on the line & doing the right thing for country’s stability. No acting FM has ever had the courage to do this. Now it’s
@CMShehbaz
& rest of cabinet’s job to cushion the poor & take other tough decisions, like austerity.
Prices of petrol, High Speed Diesel and Light Diesel Oil are to be increased by Rs 30 per litre from June 3, 2022. Price of Kerosene to be increased by Rs 26.38 from June 3, 2022.
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Just these three towers on this road, UBL, HBL & MCB, represent a combined profit of PKR 137b in 2020. They deposited 40% of that, ~55b in tax to the govt. On weekdays, the divider on this road is the nylon chaarpai straps. I think we can do better.
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Pakistan has a quality problem. Quality of life & quality of goods. If quality of life were better, all your highly qualified workforce wouldn’t immigrate. They could provide services you could export. We only produce low quality service for local consumption.
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An illustrated travelogue of an early Muslim pilgrim (with maps & illustrations), Ghazali’s Ihya ulum-ud-din, The Nurse’s Quran with its stunning typography, and a 13th century Iranian illustrated manuscript.
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Unpopular opinion: I’m a fan of the ageing, dimly-lit, gold & burgundy terrazzo palette of Karachi airport. It’s no-nonsense, warm, humble & gritty, and a soft embrace upon returning home.
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After a month of dreaming about it, & an aborted attempt last weekend, I finally made it to Clifton beach on the ruby red Peoples Bus yesterday. 🚌📍🌊 Why should anyone care about an ordinary bus ride? Because in case of Karachi, this is anything but ordinary. Here’s why:
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Minahil & I took the Orange train to Lakshmi, had halwa puri, went to Shalamar Bagh, wistfully looked at picnicking families with degchis of steaming pulao & biryani, & then took the train back to go see the Lahore Museum. Blue skies. Public transport. Fun times. 🚇😍🥳
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Can’t believe the PM is reduced to selling a real estate project as a solution to systemic issue of lack of municipal governance.
اسلام آباد کے بعد پہلی دفعہ نیا شہر بن رہا ہے، شاید کسی کو غلط فہمی ہورہی ہے کہ یہ ہاوسنگ سوسائٹی بن رہی ہے- یہاں 2کروڑ درخت لگائیں گے،وزیر اعظم عمران خان
@ImranKhanPTI
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DHA phase 786 👌🏽🙌🏽
The surface of Mars as seen by Curiosity Rover with the sound of the Martian winds captured by InSight lander. Credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech/MSSS
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10 lane highways with zero density is not good by any urban standards. De-Americanise your understanding of cities.
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On a separate note, if it takes 3 days to mobilise the armed forces in a calamity of this proportion, what’s the point of having 6 cantonments, 3 air bases, tens of Naval colonies and a Rangers headquarter within the city? Just to make sub-standard housing societies?
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Six years too late, & 350 meters short of being integrated into the city’s nascent but growing public transit system, the Abdul Sattar Edhi BRT (Orange Line) finally opened yesterday.
@AltafSario
invited me to the launch and I went, from PECHS to Orangi, using 7 🚌 & a 🛺.
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Karachi kay builders itnay jahannumi apartment banatay hain. Bare walls exposed to the sun. No balconies/verandahs No heat proofing on roofs/walls. No cross windows for ventilation. Grills on windows to perpetually make you feel imprisoned. All this for 3-5 crores. 🥵🏢☄️
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Now that you’re inspired, please fund the Blue Line BRT for Karachi? It’s the only major corridor of the BRT network that remains unfunded. Will hugely benefit Karachi’s dense Central district (Liaqatabad, Fed B Area) Will just be Rs 40/45b. Pretty please? 🥹 CC:
@MiftahIsmail
.
Went through this fascinating work of Faizan on my way to Islamabad. He has beautifully captured the stories of the citizens using Lahore Metro for their daily commute.
“Thak ta nai gy ho? Datta sahib any wala hai.” — it really touched my heart!
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This is bad for productivity, bad for the economy, bad for the environment and, most importantly, bad for people and their mental well-being. These hours are only possible for men who have no other responsibilities. Everyone else will suffer needlessly.
'Federal Government Offices shall work 6 days a week', Cabinet Secretariat notification issued.
#Pakistan
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Lots of carpets & pots & jewels & armour, but my favs were folios from illustrated Shahnamehs. You could notice the difference between the Safavid vs the Qajar vs the Mughal ones. Also loved the recreated room from Damascus.
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🤔 Where does the Green Line go? How much of the city does it cover? Where will it connect with the Orange Line (if that ever finishes!)? Here is a map I made to help you understand all this. 🗺
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You don’t build a low-density capital, with little to no public transport, and expect it to stay a cute little hamlet forever? Islamabad has scaled up to realize its original DNA: a glorified car park, nestled in the hills, choking on its own fumes.
#Islamabad
during 90s ❤
When Islamabad highway had 2 lanes. No rush and no pollution with just natural beauty. 😊
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This isn’t just attrition of Lahore. It’s a total sacking of Lahore’s resources to benefit its wealthiest residents, masquerading as development/public good.
The new Cavalry Ground underpass completed in just 2 months, A flyover at Ghora Chowk, connecting DHAs to Kalma Chowk without signals, is also almost done and will be opened in few days. Thanks to CM Punjab,
@RandhawaAli
, and
@LHRDevAuthority
for their efforts in these
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I’m all for Pakistanis being critical of SMQ’s boomer articulation (which is sloppy in general, & problematic because he’s FM) but the last thing I care about is white people & white media’s hawww hayee over it. Sweetie, you are on thin ice. You have no credibility. Fuck off.
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Let’s stop using the word “bomb” for doing the right thing in country’s interest. You know what would have been a bomb? Sovereign default when we couldn’t pay for fuel from the international markets anymore. Now let’s subsidize those who deserve a subsidy.
Bomb....Government to increase Rs 30 per litre on petroleum prices from F tonight
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Two months and over a million passengers later, the Green Line still glitters 💚🚍✨
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You cannot build a tourism industry unless you FIRST improve the quality of life for actual residents, whether that’s GB, Gwadar, Murree, Lahore or Karachi. This govt’s misplaced focus on tourism will make things worse for everyone.
Gilgit-Baltistan has 12-15 hours of load shedding, total hoteling capacity of 2k rooms, no gas/proper heating system in winters & a road network always prone to land sliding because construction companies always prioritized profits. Yet the rulers brag abt it as Switzerland.
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It’s totally fine. There is bound to be enthusiasm for a public project. Happened with each metro bus that opened. If you’re sharing this video without context, I’ll assume you’re classist: you either hate public infrastructure, or want to tone police public transport users.
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We destroyed public transit, & made mobility only possible by private vehicles. Then we made cars symbols of dignity (and motorbikes the symbol of zalalat). Then we made cars super expensive to protect local assemblers. The result: a generation, unable to move with dignity.
I hate how getting your own car is so hard in Pak. You've to work hard for years to be able to afford one second hand 1000cc car. You can't have one in almost first 3 years of your professional life as cars are way too expensive. 1.5 million for a stupid Mira is highly insane.
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Don’t fret folks. There was also a Tiger Force. And the Sufi University. And the 1.1 trillion Karachi Package. Iss Authority ka bhi yehi hona hay. It’s all in the same spirit of no real governance, only positive vibes 🥰
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Over the last two long weekends, I cycled 🚲 up and down the city to photograph 🚏🚌 bus stops. Here’s what I learnt about Karachi’s fractured governance, policy black holes and resulting dysfunction, illustrated through bus stops: a visual 🧶.
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Watch these visuals, and remember that this is because of the ego of a bunch of men who needed to show that they weren’t entirely impotent in their high offices. Yeh hay firauniyat in its most visible manifestation. This could happen to any one of us.
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Strolled through the mile long Clifton Necklace with a friend today. It’s a mile-long strip of six interconnected parks, from Nehr-e-Khayyam to Bagh Ibn-e-Qasim. Saw a grand total of maybe 15 people in all parks combined. Here is what you’re all missing out on:
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A cart that provides affordable meals & generates income for a lower income person/household is removed to create free parking space for a car that does neither, wastes fuel & is the most inefficient form of mobility. We are truly the most regressive nation.
Anti encroachment drive continues at F11 Markaz
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Show this to the Supreme Court that is ordering demolition of homes, markets & livelihoods. Send a copy to govt spokespersons who gaslight & claim all is well. Another copy to Overseas Pakistanis who send videos saying we should be thankful because Pakistan is a heaven. 💔
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Economy in shambles. Cities choked with traffic & smog. God awful quality of life. Everyone applying for immigration. Right wing being mainstreamed. Climate change at the door. Yet Overseas & rich Pakistanis think it’s smart to invest in Rs8 crore plots. What am I missing? 👀🤔
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I’m the proud owner of a new, midnight green, no-frills, no-gear, sturdy city bicycle. My own role in gentrification of cycling has been bothering me for some time, so I decided to step away from the spiralling rat race of faster, lighter, more expensive bikes.
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MIA has work produced by Muslim cultures. Lusail Museum will have works produced by all other cultures that depicts Muslim cultures (i.e. Orientalism). Some of that future Lusail Museum’s collection is up for viewing in a pavilion in the MIA garden. Love the juxtaposition!
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Basically everything and everyone, except those in charge of governance, are responsible.
Shocked & upset at tragic deaths of tourists on road to Murree. Unprecedented snowfall & rush of ppl proceeding without checking weather conditions caught district admin unprepared. Have ordered inquiry & putting in place strong regulation to ensure prevention of such tragedies.
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2022 has mostly been chaos & turmoil in Pakistan, but on at least one count, it was the best year for Karachi since 1969: public transport! 🚌 The city’s transit map started lighting up, with the opening of the first Bus Rapid Transit Line, the Green Line, in January 🍾
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Good thing World Cup isn’t held in Pakistan. The sight of Saudis celebrating & singing with their flags on their back (a very normal thing to do) after their country’s win would’ve blown the fuses of our religious right wing that sits on a powder keg of blasphemy fatwas 🇸🇦⚽️
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It’s Kidney Hill, a formerly encroached parkland, now being restored by the
@KmcPakistan
. All Karachi parks are in bloom right now, post rains. Go visit them!
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2. Qatar National Museum, not just for the desert rose-inspired building, but the compelling storytelling. There are large, original videos, taxidermied animals & fossils, Bedouin tents, dhows, lots of pearls & lots of interactivity that children will love (& so did I)!
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If you’re in
#Karachi
, do yourself a favour, and step out to the balcony, roof or window for the sunset. The sky has never been more blue, the air clean, the buildings washed, and the clouds putting on a show. The sunset will be magic.
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Natural drains pay housing society banay gi toh chahay E-11 ho, Bahria Town ho, DHA City ho ya Naya Nazimabad ho, sab kuch beh jaye ga. Aur lo 6 crore ka naalay main bangla.
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You could have spent a lifetime in
#Karachi
, but the city can always surprise you around a corner, when you least expect it. That’s what happened this Sunday.
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The chant is a problem. The keffiyeh is a problem. Civil protests are a problem. Students on campus calling for ceasefire are a problem. Placards are a problem. 🍉 emoji is a problem. What is not a problem is the actual death of over 20,000 people.
I believe he was peacefully making a cup of tea before the Israeli warplanes bombed the house.
Israel must be proud about their speed to kill, they can do it before the cup of tea is ready, especially if the target is Palestinians.
I don’t want to imagine, I don’t want to
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Repeat after me: Taxpayer 👏🏽 funded 👏🏽projects 👏🏽 are 👏🏽 not 👏🏽 gifts.
You vote for politicians to prioritise your needs, and they use public funds to build things to address your needs. They get paid to do this, not to speak of their cut etc. Where is the gift? 🎁
Salute to our brave leader Co-Chairman Pakistan People's party and our MNA Mr Asif Ali Zardari sb for a great gift of Development schemes at Nawabshah city and surroundings.
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❇️🚍❇️
PTI, inaugurating a project they didn’t start, never supported & should’ve finished 3 years ago: 🥳
PML-N, salty they didn’t get to cut the ribbon on their token investment in Khi: 🥴
PPP, hoping no one notices they’re really the ones responsible for this shithole: 🤭
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At the heart of the new museum is the old palace. This animated map of Doha shows you how rapid the transformation has been. There was a Kusama-esque light & mirror installation. Tbh I couldn’t get enough of the structure itself.
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You don’t need a shoddy dance performance and “oriental” sets when you have Naseebo Laal & Abida Perveen 😒
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The lockdown in Karachi is fizzling out.
I work for a bank, so I’ve been going to work throughout. The number of vehicles & ppl on the road (from I.I. Chundrigar to Sh-e-Faisal) today is a massive jump from previous week. The police/rangers presence also much thinner today.
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The most striking thing about Peshawar is its cleanliness✨, compared to Karachi, or even Lahore. Here’s a glimpse of it, from its star,
@TransPeshawar
’s Zu 💚🚍
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Live in Karachi & thinking of Murree & Galliyaat for holidays? Don’t. Go here instead.
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Can’t believe the childish Sindhi vs Muhajir debates on the TL triggered by the local elections. No one individual, or ethnicity, can lay a definitive claim on a 20+m ppl city, irrespective of geography or history. Grow up. Let’s make it a city worth living in.
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Which city has the best bus service? Lahore, Karachi, Rwp/Isloo, Peshawar or Multan? 🚌🥇🍾
2023 marks a decade of investment in mass transit across Pakistan, starting with the OG Lahore Metrobus in 2013. I take a look for
@dawn_com
to see where do we stand today.
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The museum also had two temporary exhibits on Baghdad: first was a historical and contemporary survey titled Eyes’ Delight, and the other on incomplete modernist grand projects designed for the city by famous global architects in the 20th century titled City of Mirages.
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Selling my waterfront apartment in PECHS Laguna. Lagoon depth is half-knee. Only interested parties may apply.
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Crushing Candy & Mashwani’s small brain @ MetroBus with hundreds others.
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Pretty hurtful of Khaadi to make a replica of a subway car in a city that has literally zero public transit 🤕🩹🧂
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Waited almost 30 mins at Zainab Market (6:28 - 6:56pm) for a
@pbsbrtsindh
R10 to SeaView. In that duration, 13 regular buses passed by. A bus that comes along once every 30 mins at rush hour isn’t a transit service,
@SMTA_GoS
. It’s a red eyewash. Photo unrelated.
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We’re living through a dumpster fire right now, but if there’s any joy, it’s the expanding public transit service in Karachi, provided by
@SMTA_GoS
&
@pbsbrtsindh
. In Dec 2021 we had zero kilometers of high quality public transit. Today, it’s more than 280 kms (and growing)!
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Finally they accept him as an ex PM. That’s a start. Baby steps.
Introducing for the first an Ex PM of Pakistan on a podcast. It is live now. Apologies for the delay.
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