Karolina Laskowska
@KarolinaZL
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Creator of fine lingerie & couture corsetry. Founder & director of @TheUPMuseum Patreon:
Oslo, Norway
Joined February 2011
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I was supposed to make a big deal of my 10th anniversary A YEAR AGO, but I was way too busy and didn't get around to it. Now we're around my 11th anniversary, and I'm still too busy, but I'm going to share the celebratory photoshoot I did with
@Tigzy
in a thread:
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Just watched a TikTok about a clothing designer breaking down the costs of a dress; most of the comments are yelling at her that it's still too expensive, and I'm sat here thinking 'those margins are abysmal, prices need to go up or you're going to be forced to close'
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One thing that I despise about the 'quiet luxury' trend is it's so fucking boring. At least wealthy people in bygone eras had the decency to spend their money on arts and fine craftsmanship. Now everything is beige and boring, and we're losing so many incredible crafts.
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Thinking about how almost every time I share a design that is embellished with spikes, some guy has to swoop into my inbox to say this design 'oversight' means that you can't touch the wearer.
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This reminds me of some of the comments and messages I used to get when I used vintage/antique silks or laces. People would say 'you should donate them to a museum', when the reality is... museums don't want this stuff. Many of my antique textiles are museum deaccsions.
nothing irks me more than comments like these, not everything old is valuable and needs to be preserved
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Businesses are not charities. No one is forcing you to buy clothing out of your budget, but that doesn't mean you can bully the indie brands who are barely breaking even!
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A trend I'm seeing right now amongst a lot of teeny indie designers/makers is a lot of them are dramatically shifting their business models to accommodate their bodies gradually giving out on them.
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When we talk about throwaway fashion, most of us think about fast fashion brands, but I swear that more and more *luxury* brands are deliberately designing their clothes to fall apart at appalling speed
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The 'Frivolité' ensemble, my most lavish bespoke commission to date. Luscious silk satin is hand appliquéd in the finest, French, rebrodée lace. Hundreds of freshwater pearls are stitched into the lace & draped across the hips. Soft sprays of ostrich feathers finish the garments.
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The baleen used in 18th & 19th c. corsetry was incredibly lightweight and flexible. It's not the rigid and restricting material that it's made out to be in popular culture.
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Putting aside today's eyeletting disaster, I am really really happy with how this corset that I made for myself turned out.
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Also, I cannot deal with how toxic TikTok comments are, and it really puts me off investing any more energy into that app
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I've been in a weird angst spiral all day over the fact that I no longer fit into my favourite Summer dress, until I took a moment to think about it critically and realised I've owned that dress since I was 16!!!
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@officialhambly
I'm crazy enough to use real pearls, and I knot like this between beads! (I used to have a jewellery brand many years ago)
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8 years since I sewed the first ever Cassiopeia bra!
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If you have the audacity to be obscenely rich, at least have the decency to patronise a couturier or an embroiderer... Just keep at least one craft alive, please!!!
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Note to self: make a corset where all the spikes are extra sharpened and concentrated on the lower back 😑😑😑
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I'm offended that TikTok won't even let my own audience see this video because THIS IS A REALLY GREAT BRA
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Something being old doesn't automatically bestow value, and the reality is... If they're not used, many of these objects will just fade away, unused, in storage. Especially textiles. Isn't a new and upcycled life better than that?
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Details from my most decadent bespoke creation to date - a silk duchesse corset embellished with beaded and ribbonworked French lace appliqué, freshwater pearls and ostrich feathers. I was working on this piece for months.
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In an alternative universe where I'd been invited to the Met Gala and could still fit into this, I'd have worn this corset from my 2019 wedding reception gown
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If you're thinking of learning sewing, please please please (I cannot stress this enough) DO NOT pick a corset or a bra as your first ever project!!!
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The Tagetes lingerie set, crafted from the finest, hand-embellished French lace. Silk ribbon embroidery, thousands of sequins and glass beads have been applied by skilled artisans, before being transformed into this wearable art. Available exclusively at
@JanesVanity
🧡
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Shitting on the textile arts just because you don't like the Met Gala isn't the hot take you think it is
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Soooo I finally got my hands on one of the Mugler 'high tech' corsets and... this might be simultaneously one of the worst AND most expensive corsets I've ever bought?!
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Garment making (especially corset making) seriously takes its toll on the body.
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Thinking about how regularly the fashion press and brands try to label making bralets instead of underwired bras as a 'feminist' decision, as if its not largely driven by the vastly different manufacturing costs and profit margins.
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I am routinely alarmed by how luxury fashion brands are charging thousands of dollars for garments that are 100% polyester
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My first ever pair of stays, made of a golden duchesse satin and embellished with a flourish of lace appliqué and freshwater pearls. Making these was a steep learning curve, and I'm in no hurry to bind tabs again any time soon.
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I don't really have a conclusion to this thread. Just... be kind to indie designers. They can't do all the things. A lot of them have been trying for far too long, and the physical and mental consequences aren't good.
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@AliceJ_SF
The designer on this TikTok was barely 18%! I don't see how that could ever be sustainable
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One thing about the Met Gala is it always triggers a bunch of moralistic hand wringing about the dangers of corsetry, and I for one, am very very bored of it
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I'm not able to work how I used to, and I found it alarming how many of my colleagues were also experiencing the same issues in their 30s.
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Designing wedding dresses is not my thing, but I am regularly horrified at how so many commercial bridal salons will be selling 5 figure gowns that use *visibly* cheap fabrics.
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I cannot deal with how vibrant these silk elastic samples are after some 120 years 😭
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First try on of a new corset/new pattern that I made for myself, and I'm pretty happy with it. I will ideally not be styling it with polka dot pj bottoms in the future.
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11 years to this day since my first ever corset debuted on my school's catwalk 😱
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Thinking about this bespoke corset minidress from last year, which had weeks and weeks worth of hand stitched lace appliqué and hundreds of freshwater pearls. I'm still so proud of this piece.
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Embroidery details from one of my wedding reception gowns, made last year. All of this silk ribbon embroidery was freehand, with no real plan for placement or motifs... I wanted it to grow organically and wildly, like a garden would 🌸
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All these people arguing that a $1000 lingerie set shouldn't exist, and I just want to ask... Do you want to live in a world without art or beautifil design and craft? Or do you just not think the people behind those things deserve a living wage?
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My absolute FURY at Instagram labelling one of my photos as 'Made with AI' when AI hasn't been anywhere near it?!?!!?!?
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One of my wedding gowns! ❤️A photo of it in action from the day:
While we’re on the subject of the robe de style, one of my friends,
@KarolinaZL
made one for her wedding day
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Taking a break from working with one fiendishly beautiful beaded lace to work with another fiendishly beautiful beaded lace 🥲
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Hope all the people who throw shit at indie lingerie designers for not offering ALL THE SIZES are keeping that energy a certain billionaire's lingerie line who is now claiming to cater to the 'needs of every woman'
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I was lucky enough to find a batch of unused, antique baleen that has been pre-cut/filed into corset bones, and I'll be making up a contemporary corset soon to test how it behaves in comparison to contemporary alternatives.
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Just to horrify all the corset nerds: this is the finishing in a ~$2600 corset. Raw powermesh seams. Overlocking on the cup top edge.
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I recently scored a large piece of *handmade* 19th c. chantilly lace, and there is a part of me who wants to make a lingerie set out of a small piece just for the decadence of it all
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Overconsumption in the fashion industry is often framed as a fast fashion issue... but I am regularly appalled at the sheer volumes pushed even at the luxury end of the market.
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This corset is quite an experimental piece that resulted in a series of happy accidents... I'm still kind of on the fence if I should revisit this concept (it's an all in one, not a separate bra/underbust).
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It took literally 7 years but I finally completed my all time favourite Agent Provocateur set, Ester from the Soirée line. That beading though 😭😭😭
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I've run away to London for a week and am very excited to catch up with friends and family, but also to dig through the pile of vintage/antique garments that arrived since my last trip.
Anyway, here's some stays I made earlier this year.
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'Curse You All Men': Hand painted silk duchesse satin, shredded silk tulle, French leavers lace and glass spike beading.
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If you buy from an overseas business and you get customs charges... PLEASE do not blame the business. Customs charges are 100% the responsibility of your government, and businesses are legally required to declare the value of you orders.
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I just remembered that a couple of years ago I made VAMPIRE themed lingerie, so that feels relevant to reshare today. Lace appliqué blood drips 🩸
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I am very tired of the narrative that corsets are 'restrictive' and 'sexist'. The same myths just keep getting regurgitated, and it's so ahistorical and reductive.
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A 1950s fetishwear inspired corset, with a pointed bustline, exaggerated hipspring and 8 suspender straps. I adore working in cotton bobbinet; flexible and light, but still strong enough for a dramatic silhouette.
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The 'Nacre' corset dress, one of my most intense bespoke creations last year, and certainly one of my favourites🖤 Silk satin is embellished with intricate French chantilly lace appliqué. Hundreds of freshwater pearls scatter the surface, each individually hand stitched in place.
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I know taste is subjective, and there's lots of factors that go into determining a retail price but... For £900 RRP, I'd like that centre lace to either be mirror or not have a seam.
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Me, browsing through the new arrivals of a luxury fashion website: WHY IS EVERYTHING FUCKING POLYESTER
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As much as I think it's a good thing to have so many social media creators doing sewing tutorials, I despise when it's framed as 'clothing brands are scamming you!!! Make your own for $10 and it will automatically be better quality!!!'
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A custom Sonata set created in collaboration with
@msmerlenoir
💮 Hand painted French lace appliqué over fine tulle with hand dyed trims. The client gave us free reign on the colour palette, so we selected aqua, mint and strawberry pink tones with a watercolour effect.
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Don't mind me, I'm just straight up weeping over the Rosie Von Boschan lingerie set that just arrived 😭😭😭😭😭😭
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Have I ever mentioned how much I love working with cotton bobbinet? The ultimate foundation fabric, you cannot change my mind.
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New for
@lingerie_addict
! Exploring the differences in designing for ready-to-wear vs. bespoke.
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I say this with utter sincerity: for that kind of money, I make an infinitely better quality (and better fitting!) cupped corset. If lace isn't your jam, I can do fully sheer bobbinet.
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An unusually (for me!) unembellished corset, inspired by 1950s fetish illustrations: a pointed bust and extreme hip spring, with a 19" closed waist. Oversized gold rings and 8 suspender straps.
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Lots of lovely blues in my custom creations; maybe it's something that I should consider bringing into RTW collections rather than defaulting to black.
As ever, I can bring your lingerie dreams to life with my custom service 🖤 be that in blue or any other colour of the rainbow!
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The Curse You All Men corset from 2020. Inspired by the aesthetics of Black Metal, & my attempt to subvert a genre that is famously hostile towards anyone that doesn't fit the mould of 'cis-het white man'. Spike placement is deliberate to prevent unwanted touching to the wearer.
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I snapped and I'm making myself a new version of this corset. Too much seller's regret! There's something about the combo of pearls and feathers in these shades that I just adore.
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7 years exactly since I finished off the Violente corset! I haven't done any mirrored appliqué work in a long time, I have to add that to this year's to do list...
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Nocturne, my collaboration with
@msmerlenoir
, lands tomorrow! We can't wait to share the full collection with you: think bias cut silks, decadent lace appliqué, hand painting and more... 🖤
Shown here is the Nocturne cupped corset, which is strictly made to measure.
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I fully accept that I'm a major fabric snob but it hurts my soul to see luxury lingerie brands using AliExpress mass-manufactured fabrics... But charging extremely premium prices
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A reminder that most Haute Couture houses actually lose money on that wing of their business, but leverage it as marketing for more profitable/mass produced products such as makeup, sunglasses, fragrance, leather goods etc
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When making a fancy gown, you don't just have to think about the design aesthetics or how it fits. You also have to consider how the wearer is going to get in/out of the garment (which usually means an appropriate fastening), and the ability to move whilst wearing the garment.
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I've spent literally years developing the size expansion for this balconette bra shape, which now covers cup sizes from UK 32B-32HH (band sizes 30-36 as standard & others easily customised). It's a slow process to expand size ranges when you're running a 1 person business!
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Honestly, I'm surprised the corset gets so much more hate than high heel shoes. The latter is still expected in countless social situations, and yet can demonstrably cause pretty serious long term health issues.
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I think this corset is the best thing I made all year. Cotton tulle, French lace and freehand silk ribbon embroidery. I'd love to use these techniques for a client in the new year!
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Fast fashion culture really has people out here expecting to get a fully handmade corset, for the price of a garment pattern
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The Ara corset, strictly made to measure or with full bespoke fit! Cotton bobbinet with an overlay of rich copper toned French lace and trimmed with silk. A true show stopper ✨️
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I invested in a new high-tech mannequin today that's designed for lingerie/corsetry, and I am SO excited to photograph my cupped corsetry on something that fits!!!
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Spring is starting to reach Oslo, so I'll take it as an excuse to share these silk ribbon embroidery details from my wedding reception gown. Photography by
@Tigzy
🌸
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Just some 1920s couture lingerie details to make you weep
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Can't get over the gorgeousness of this corded French lace 🥹 Working on new lingerie treasures for
@JanesVanity
🩷❤️
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One of my oldest designs, and probably one of my all time most popular... The Elżbieta pentagram playsuit!
Perhaps enough time has passed for me to have recovered from the last production run... Who'd be interested in my reopening for orders for a little while?
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The Odile corset is looking for a new home! Hand painted coutil, French lace appliqué, silk tulle, Swarovski crystals and Czech glass spikes. Payment plans available, and I'll consider reasonable offers for this design:
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I have seen perfection, and it is this 1930s bridal trousseau. 100% hand stitched. 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
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I don't think I'll ever be over this bespoke commission from earlier in the year. This cupped corset was made from layers of cotton bobbinet, lurex bobbinet, silk tulle, metallic French leavers lace, and hundreds of seed beads, Swarovski crystals and iridescent Czech glass spikes
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Someone pinch me - I think I just won a 1920s Maison Worth gown at auction for £150????
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Another sneaky preview of my new collection 'Hecate' because I am feeling impatient AF and super proud of it. I'm launching it publicly in a week maybe? Otherwise you can view in full and pre-order via my Patreon.
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I still get a bit sad that I sold this corset, but I have so many projects coming up that are based on freshwater pearls that it helps ease the sting a bit
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Handmade lace is *incredibly* time consuming to make (this piece alone could easily have taken months), and I paid all of £35 for 4m of it, because our society does not value textiles nearly enough 1🥲
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Pro tip: all the measurements in a world will not be enough information to tell you if an underwire bra will be a good fit.
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I did not expect this to blow up quite as much as it did on Twitter, but I am enjoying all the love for this design🥰 Hoping to work on some matching accessories and take proper photos of this piece soon!
Putting aside today's eyeletting disaster, I am really really happy with how this corset that I made for myself turned out.
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I've spent this evening repairing garments from a whole host of well known, luxury lingerie brands - pieces that have only been lightly worn once or twice, and are already disintegrating.
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Thread of some of some of my favourite corsets AKA tOrTuRe DeViCeS that I've made over the years, because fuck the nonsensical corset mischaracterisation and general outrage:
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I recently had someone in my email inbox getting irate because The Underpinnings Museum doesn't categorise its collection based on gender, and the more that I think about it... the more opposed I am to the idea.
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