My beloved Arsenal-supporting dad sadly died in the early hours. He fought bravely after breaking his hip & getting pneumonia before Christmas. Having witnessed the kindness and care shown by the NHS I’d like to thank all the nurses & doctors for their professionalism. RIP Dad 💔

To read more on discovering Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 must-visit capital Vilnius why not add your email to receive my travel @SubstackInc Layth’s Take

Vilnius was called Jerusalem of the North as city was home to Jews for 600+ years. Until Hitler invaded in 1941. On September 5, 1941 to October 20, 1941 Nazis marched 11,000+ people to their deaths from here. 95% (195,000+) of all Lithuanian Jews were murdered during Holocaust

The revered Gate of Dawn here in Vilnius old town. Built in 1503 venerated for bringing luck, guarding city from attacks & blessing travellers. Virgin Mary image inside said to have miraculous powers. Became national symbol after 1702 victory during Battle of Vilnius vs Sweden

My notes on St John’s church: Built 1388. Rebuilt 1728 after fire. During 1827 rebuild architect destroys 3000 priceless artefacts by taking them to a dump. Priest killed for preaching during Hitler’s occupation. After WW2 Soviets damaged church. Pope John Paul II visits 1993

The stunning Gothic red brick St Anne’s church on the east side of Vilnius old town dates to 1495. A World Heritage Site that so captivated Napoleon he wanted to dismantle it brick by brick & transport it to Paris for Josephine to admire. The site of anti-Soviet protests in 1987

The Baroque Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit dates from 1408. Shut by Tsarist authorities in 1807 to be a prison. In the dungeon are said to be Napoleonic soldiers’ bones from France’s ill-fated 1812 invasion of Russia. Pope John Paul II visited after the Berlin Wall fell

The Republic of Užupis

You can even have your passport stamped here in the Republic of Užupis. However, as a local in the flea market told me: “You could have conflict & confusion if you go to USA. My friend went to New York. Man on desk looks through passport & asks: ‘where is Republic of Užupis?’”

The Republic of Užupis. A counterculture commune with its own constitution, national holidays, flag, currency & president. There are 38 articles in its constitution including: “Everyone has the right to be happy [number 16]” and number 17: “Everyone has the right to be unhappy.”

Stumbled across a commune for writers and renegades after crossing the bridge over the river Vilnia from central Vilnius to the community of Užupis. A haunt for subversives to meet during the Soviet era with many creatives still squatting in abandoned buildings

Vilnius backstreets 🇱🇹

I always like to have a stroll around the backstreets of a city as well as the main tourist areas. Here’s some Vilnius views off the beaten track 🇱🇹

Vilnius is a mixture of the old and the new. If you scratch the surface you’ll find a surprising city intent on modernity and peace but one which remembers Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 rich but turbulent heritage

If you’re interested in Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture then Vilnius is for you. Everywhere you look around the capital of Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 cobblestone-lined streets there are stunning historic buildings and churches

It’s four seasons in one day here in Vilnius 🇱🇹. Windy and freezing cold when it lashes it down, yet there’s glorious blue skies and a lovely autumnal feel when there sun’s out. Cold at night. I can imagine winter here would be, er, Baltic…!

Gediminas Hill gives you captivating 360 degree views of Vilnius. The area is the birthplace of Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 capital city between the Vilnius & Neris rivers below. The red-brick tower dates its history back to 11th century & is a proud symbol of their fight for independence

Took the funicular to the blustery top of Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill which gives you stunning autumnal views of Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 historic capital.

Really enjoying exploring Vilnius. Lithuania’s 🇱🇹 compact, cobblestoned capital, which marked its 700th anniversary in 2023, is a city with a turbulent history. It’s also small enough to make you feel you’ve stepped into an elegantly baroque village

Good morning from Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania 🇱🇹

Made it to Vilnius! 🇱🇹 Look forward to exploring Lithuania’s capital despite the freezing rain. See my @SubstackInc on Monday for my first travel piece from the Baltic States this week. PS thanks to all who’ve made Layth’s Take rated No20 in global travel writing on Substack 👍🏼🙏🏼