
Grub Street
@grubstreet
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New York, NY
Joined April 2009
Since moving here in 2023, Chef Alexia Duchêne has mostly adapted to American customs — except for the lines. ‘In New York, the bigger the line, the more people want to join it,’ she writes in this week’s Diet. ‘I cannot comprehend them.’
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“As a European, I hate lines and cannot comprehend them.”
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Saul Zabar always insisted his family’s famous store was bigger than one person. After the figurehead’s death earlier this week, we’re about to find out if that’s true.
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The family’s figurehead always insisted their famous store was bigger than one person. We’re about to find out if that’s true.
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After years of embracing corny tie-ins and ticketed factory sales, the once-pristine image of Le Creuset’s high-priced cookware is starting to lose its cachet.
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Why does a collection of $400 pans suddenly look so cheap?
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The location is new, but the shells à la Nat and chicken parm are exactly the same. Pietro’s, the longtime midtown steakhouse, has reopened on Second Avenue. The regulars already have their tables booked.
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The location is new, but the shells à la Nat, chicken parm, and Caesar salad are exactly the same.
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Luc Lévy’s Nolita cafeteria has been a favorite, low-key hangout for stars like Michelle Williams and Spike Jonze. But employees now say paychecks are bouncing, and the restaurant looks to be mired in unsustainable debt.
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Luc Lévy’s famed hangout has been mired in lawsuits, too.
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For someone with a new series called ‘Breaking Bread,’ Tony Shalhoub keeps it fairly light on the carbs. ‘I exercise an enormous amount of restraint when it comes to pastries,’ he writes in this week’s Grub Diet, ‘unless I’m in Europe.’
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“I exercise an enormous amount of restraint when it comes to pastries — unless I’m in Europe.”
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‘New York’ Magazine’s restaurant critic Matthew Schneier reviews Frijoleros, a Greenpoint Mexican spot with world-class mole and a chef who knows how to have fun.
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Frijoleros has a world-class mole and a chef who knows how to have fun.
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“Where should we go tonight?” New York Magazine’s food team has the answers with their ruthlessly efficient picks for their favorite restaurants to try right now.
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The best restaurants for right now.
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A modest proposal to improve the way we all tip at cafés, bakeries, and coffee shops: One small change to screen-based terminals.
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Even if it has to be digital.
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What does MAGA taste like? Adam Platt discovers filet mignon is out while marrow bones and lamb tartare are in at D.C.’s new right-wing power spots.
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Filet mignon is out and marrow bones are in at D.C.’s new right-wing power spots.
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After a brief stint downtown, Zoe Dubno is happy to once again be near Zabar’s. ‘The Zabars are my lifelong family friends,’ she writes in this week’s Diet, ‘which, to people on the UWS, is like mentioning you summer at Balmoral with the queen.’
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“We order the ‘double occupancy,’ which comes in a bowl the size of a school-bus steering wheel.”
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Katie Owes’s soul-food restaurant has been open for 11 years. Just three weeks ago, a surge of new customers showed up thanks to TikTok. Now, Owes and her team must figure out how to make sure everyone leaves happy.
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Katie O’s is managing its new popularity one turkey wing at a time.
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A24’s first restaurant is an art-house supper club: Frenchette chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr are doing pretheater dining at Wild Cherry, the new restaurant inside the revamped Cherry Lane Theatre.
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Frenchette chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr do pretheater dining at Wild Cherry.
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He’s opening a gourmet grocery in Tribeca — maybe you��ve heard? Sammy Nussdorf has been posting about his new store, Meadow Lane, for years. He says that after numerous delays, the gas is on and he is at last ready to open for real.
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Meadow Lane is ready at last. It only took six years and 675 TikTok videos to get here.
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Step into the brewtique: Why does it seem like every retail shop is also a high-end coffee shop? Because they are, and because we want it that way, writes Mark Byrne.
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Why is every store also a café?
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TV on the Radio’s Kyp Malone has worked in restaurants and knows that it can be an exploitative business. So ‘I’m comforted when the culture of the house is positive,’ he writes in this week’s Diet. ‘And I don’t feel like a dick for being there.’
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“I’m comforted when the culture of the house is positive — and I don’t feel like a dick for being there.”
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L.A.’s Maru coffee is expanding to Brooklyn: The West Coast chainlet is bringing its fanatical quality standards and cream-topped espresso to Williamsburg with a new shop that opens next week.
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The West Coast chainlet is bringing its fanatical quality standards and cream-topped espresso to Brooklyn.
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‘New York’ Magazine’s restaurant critic Matthew Schneier reviews I Cavallini. The neighborhood trattoria is follow-up to the Four Horsemen, but it never seems to take its own hype for granted.
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I Cavallini is a neighborhood trattoria that doesn’t buy into its own hype.
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A legendary Hell’s Kitchen hellhole is back from the dead: Siberia — which Anthony Bourdain once called his favorite bar — has reopened inside the Columbus Circle subway station.
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Siberia opens in the Columbus Circle subway station.
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Does wine still matter? Speaking to restaurateurs who complain of falling liquor sales and reading studies of Gen Z’s decreased alcohol consumption might make wine lovers wonder what’s happening. Restaurant critic Matthew Schneier explains.
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A restaurant critic makes the case.
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