Daniel
@formatc1702
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Hackaday Berlin: The Badge, Workshops, and Lightning Talks
hackaday.com
Hackaday Berlin is just under two weeks away, and we’ve got news times three! If you don’t already have tickets, there are still a few left, so grab them while they’re hot. We’ll be rolling out the…
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👾 Are you ready to show-off the #hardware projects you've been working on in 2023? Here's your chance.. Join us for the biggest gathering of hardware #hackers in Europe! Tickets are selling out🎟 https://t.co/cIDnzvvtEt 📍See you on March 25th @ MotionLab in #Berlin, Germany.
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have you ever dreamed of entering the very select club of the md? ⭐ Win this MiniDisc player NetMD type S ⭐ + a Special edition minidisc ⭐ Winner chosen at random will be announced 3.24 ⭐ enter: ➡️Follow ➡️Retweet + like this post ➡️Tag a friend in the comment of this post
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A bit of mechanical reverse engineering for the next iteration of the Bluetooth #MiniDisc project... https://t.co/4viM17g4jL
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How I added built-in Bluetooth to my Minidisc player 💽❤️📶 https://t.co/IFSZm7c3Vs
@MiniDisc_wiki
github.com
Adding built-in bluetooth connectivity to a 20-year-old Mindisc player - 17o2/bluetooth-minidisc
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💽❤️📶 My MiniDisc player now has built-in Bluetooth, for streaming to AirPods Pro... time to blast some Linkin Park like it's 2001, but without wires🤘
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ideally it would use a smaller and less bulky cap, but I'm afraid that the resistor between VCC and inverting input would need grow too large (already 470k) to achieve desired pulse length... perhaps there's a better architecture I don't know about?
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How to improve this circuit? Generates single 3~4s pulse after being powered on (3.3V). Can't get any bigger in size, should discharge cap. immediately after shutdown so pulse length is consistent every time (even after short power-down time), and ideally use LM393 as well. Go!
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Needs to boost from 1.2~1.5V to 3.3V, small output current < 50 mA, and have a tiny footprint / height. The Pololu's 12 x 15 x 3 mm is juuuust barely small enough 😉
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Does anybody in Berlin have a Pololu U1V11F3 boost converter (or similar tiny converter, 3.3V out) lying around that I could pick up super-short-notice? 🤖
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Another part has arrived! This time, it violates another requirement of ② (overall length), but is still just as usable for ① thanks to the relaxed tolerances for functionally irrelevant dimensions 🎉
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The whole thing gets more complicated if you add additional requirements. Hole diameter tolerance, hole roundness, straightness of the bar... not to mention extending the example to 2D and 3D!
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And in ③, without a drawing, the design intent is not clear to anyone, and the vague tolerance information is not enough to determine whether the part passes or fails. 🤷♂️ Have fun discussing that with your supplier!
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In ②, what matters is the length of the bar (maybe as a spacer?) and the distance of each hole to the adjacent edge. Totally different requirements, even though the ideal model is exactly the same. The delivered part is not good enough for this purpose. ❌
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In ①, the only thing that matters is the distance between the holes (e.g. for a linkage). The tolerance for the overall length can be relaxed, and handled using the "General Tolerance" note (which takes care of a bunch of other stuff as well). The part is totally fine! ✅
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On the question: "Do I really need to provide a manufacturing drawing, or is a CAD model enough?" Here's a 1D example of why in some cases, having a drawing *does* matter. Based on a conversation with @timonsku
https://t.co/zefMZA4kbY
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